Back in Winnipeg

We've been back only a few days now, but the Middle East seems so far away. We spent our last night on the roof of the Ecce Homo Convent in the Old City of Jerusalem, reflecting on our time together. Each of us shared our highlights - many could not stop at one - and each highlight brought on a lively discussion. We remembered Damascus - the Turkish baths, the Ummayyad Mosque . . . ; we recalled Lebanon - the friendly neighbours, the basketball, the frantic drive into Beirut; we thought of Petra and the Wadi Rum - sleeping under the stars, proudly waving on the top of the rock bridge.

We also reflected on our time in Israel/Palestine, trying to understand the reality of the occupation. We saw the occupation from three angles. First, we listened to Angela from the Israeli Commission Against House Demolitions. Angela explained her story - as an Israeli citizen she could no longer accept the reasons her government was giving for the occupation; she could not support settlement building or the demolition of Palestinian houses. Second, we listened to Ayman from the Alternative Travel Group. As a Palestinian Christian, he explained how his home town of Bethlehem has been changed by settlement building and the security barrier. It was sobering to walk along the snake like wall, reading the graffiti, seeing the many homes surrounded and separated. Third, we listened someone from the Christian Peacemaker Team in Hebron. It was a unique experience, sitting together on a Hebron rooftop, hearing about military and settler activity in the region, with IDF soldiers staring at us from a rooftop next door. All three of these peace group representatives implored us to speak about the occupation to people in Canada, and I'm sure that the students will do so. I'm sure that I will do so as well.

So now we just have memories. Some of us are still waking up from dreams in which we are wandering in the suqs of Jerusalem or Damascus. Many of us still smile when we think of camel rides or desert walks. And all of us have a new outlook on the Middle East, its religions, its politics, its people . . .

As we were in the midst of sharing on the last night, the evening call to prayer began to sound through the walls of the convent. We stopped talking and listened quietly to the harmonious sound, each of us wondering when we would be privileged to hear such a sound again. Some of us bought mosque alarm clocks . . . but I don't think they will live up to the real thing.

The Final Stretch

We're sitting here relaxing in Bethlehem. It is good to take a break. We have been moving around a lot and hearing many stories about the situation here in Israel/Palestine. It has been a lot to digest and we are looking forward to a debriefing session tomorrow night. But tonight it is back to our homestays and a long night of packing and preparing for our trip home.

After Petra we had an amazing time in the Wadi Rum. The Bedouins treated us with great hospitality: we ate well, listened to music, played cards . . . all under the beautiful desert sky. The hiking during the daytime was fun as well: jumping off sand dunes, standing perched on rock bridges, zipping around in jeeps, sitting at the top of mountains, looking at the vast expanse of sand beneath us.

Jerusalem, the next part of our adventure, was magical as it always is. The students enjoyed wandering through the markets and narrow streets, bartering or just talking with friendly shop owners. Our hostel was good . . . except for the fact that some of us had to sleep on the roof, getting woken up by church bells and the morning call to prayer.

Well, as you can see by the tone of this writing, we are all a little tired but I still see the excitement in the students' faces as we plan to go back to Jerusalem tomorrow morning. Many of them have already written a prayer and placed it in the Western Wall, and tomorrow we will go above that wall to visit the Dome of the Rock. The Mount of Olives was also a highlight, albeit a tiring climb - praying the Lord's Prayer at the place where Jesus is said to have recited it was a meaningful experience.

As I look around at the students, I see them excited about coming home and doing some laundry, but I also have heard from many: "We don't want to leave yet." Still, I know many are looking forward to cold milk and cereal, me included.

The Plan

We're heading into Petra again today. Tomorrow we are off to the Wadi Rum to ride some camels and scramble over some unique terrain. After a dip in the Dead Sea, we will then head to Jerusalem where, God willing, we will be able to update this blog once again.

Today, in Petra - amazing.

The Westgate women inside the Omayaid Mosque in Damascus, suitably garbed. (We are trying to get more pics up, but this one took 20 minutes, so more images may have to wait until our next stop in the next country.)

Finally

So, this blog thing hasn't worked out very well yet despite our good intentions. Syria doesn't allow access to the site, and a small village in Lebanon isn't really the place to find an internet cafe. But now we have the technology so here it goes:

Syria highlights:
After a short sleep we made our way to the mosque via the souq (market) and found ourselves instantly immersed in a very different culture...the sights, sounds, crowds, traffic, smells and the looks we received - and very soon we found that people were interested in talking to us, welcoming us to their country, having us hold their children and taking pictures of us...
The Mosque was a peaceful community centre, quiet and clean, and a place to rest, and think. Food - shawarma and falafel, and baklava, the mezze - a buffet of baba ganoush, humous, and many other things..in the ancient surrounds of a Damascus courtyard. the hammam was very special for everyone - the girls were asked to sing and they did - African songs (Vic should be proud)- people stopped and listened and applauded. Next day- Crac de Chevalier for some, for others, to an Aramaic village where we heard the Lord's Prayer in Jesus' language. Annanais' chapel was another highlight. The girls became expert at bartering, and made many good shopping 'deals'. The backpacks are heavy now...

Damascus journal entry: I have been in awe of how the students have embraced this city. I see them making friends with everyone, from Muslims in the mosque to an Iraqi with war scars in the Turkish bath. I seem the females in our group speaking with niqab hidden women, speaking with interest and warmth. They've even had fun trying to get pictures with cute waiters - who will be able to forget the irresistable Fadi at Beit Jaber? Wherever we went, the students filled spaces with enthusiasm and positive energy, despite being hungry or tired or . . . I love this city; I love what it does to people.

Lebanon highlights: We arrived after a long border wait exiting Syria, seems all the paperwork done in advance lacked one thing - ask James about 'urgency fees'. Syrians save their friendly folks for their cities...
The students were excited about the accomodations in Schneller , 'it is like being at camp' and soon were sent outside to speak English and Arabic with the students of Schneller. If there were any nerves about this, they soon dissipated as the groups of students merged and lots of laughter and conversation began. For sure, our girls were the main attraction, as the students we met that evening were boys from the vocational program, but many of the boys made new friends as well. The next day the legendary basketball game took place, Lebanon led bythe PE teacher (younger and cuter than KW) and Canada led by Levi, who was convinced we could win this. Much cheering from the bleachers (outdoor court, hills of Lebanon as a backdrop). We taught the younger students to cheer 'Go Canada Go' and since we were clearly the underdogs, they did, with enthusiasm and volume. Heather Fast RIPPED a ball from the hands of one of the Lebanese, JH should be so proud. We lost - but did the best we have ever done, according to James. They did not offer us any players, as they have in the past - that would jave been too risky. Soon the students headed home for an extended Easter break, and the place was very quiet. The next day we toured Lebanon - the Jeita grotto and a gondola to the top of the city overlooking all of Jouneh (a suburb of Beirut), and the Medit..Sea - beautiful...
It is remarkable to imagine the wars this country has endured, and may again endure. Many people that we spoke with, when we mention Canada, say that their sister (cousin, brother, etc) is there, and they hope to go there one day soon as well. It is a beautiful country, but they want very badly to leave. The struggles are evident for these people love their home very much...but...
One more night at Schneller and then a long day, with two border crossings (more urgency fees) and we arrived in Petra. More on that soon....
A highlight for most of the students was visiting James and LeAnn's former neighbours. They treated us with true Lebanese hospitality, forcing us to drink coffee and tea, and showing us how to dance the dabke (the traditional Lebanese dance). Some of you from the last trip may remember these folk; Johnny is still a show off - he's the best at dabke in the village. He certainly charmed the hearts of some of our girls..no names will be divulged.

Pam and James (on behalf of the group)

Two More Sleeps

I'm not sure about everyone else, but I'm still not packed. However, I do have a new shirt - from what I've heard, asphalt is the new olive. Don't we look like an intrepid group of travellers? Look out Middle East, here we come.